Hardboard can make a very good foundation for your mosaics as extended as you restrict the measurement of the total mosaic, limit the tesserae size, and will not screen the mosaic in a damp atmosphere. Avoid hardboard for out of doors purposes since of the likely for deterioration. Assuming your tesserae are the dimensions of a quarter or less and the general dimension of your mosaic is considerably less than 24″x24″, I have discovered that 1/eight-inch thick hardboard supplies an adequate foundation. If your tesserae are small, it is shocking how flexible the mosaic is, even with grout, which indicates it can face up to some warping prior to the grout cracks or glass items pop off. If your tesserae are big or if you incorporate huge items of stained glass into your mosaic, the thickness of your foundation have to be better because the mosaic can’t stand up to as considerably warping (i.e., the thicker the wooden, the far more resistant to warping). For example, suppose your mosaic is 24″x24″ and you use a one piece of yellow stained glass to symbolize the brilliant sunshine lights up the entire world. Suppose the sun’s diameter is ten inches, which can make up a excellent chunk of the mosaic. It’s straightforward to see how a little warping can anxiety that one piece of glass triggering failure (i.e., breaking, popping off). It truly is like ceramic tile on a concrete-slab foundation. As the concrete cracks and moves, stress is used to the ceramic tile and, if the tension is fantastic enough, the tile breaks. For that reason, you have to consider the tesserae size when deciding on the thickness of your mosaic’s foundation.
In excess of the a long time producing numerous wall mosaics that are 24″x24″ or significantly less, I have found that my favorite foundation is 1/eight-inch hardboard. It’s the dark-brown stuff that pegboard is made from but with no the holes. It’s slippery easy on one facet and tough on the other. I use this content only for dry, indoor, wall mosaics that will not be uncovered to dampness. I use this substance simply because it really is: one) Fairly slender, 2) Reasonably lightweight, and three) Tough on a single facet so the glue grabs keep of it well.
The one/8-inch thickness enables the finished mosaic to in shape in a normal pre-produced body. My glass tesserae are about 1/eight-inch thick, so the overall thickness of the finished mosaic is only about one/4-inch. This allows me to buy a completely ready-manufactured frame for virtually nothing at all. I prepare my indoor wall mosaics to be 16″x24″, eighteen”x24″, or 24″x24″, which are common measurements for pre-made frames. If I had been to use 3/4-inch plywood or MDF as the foundation, I would then have to use a customized frame with sufficient depth to include the complete thickness of the mosaic (i.e., 3/four-inch wooden basis plus 1/8-inch tesserae equals practically a one-inch thickness). Personalized frames price up to five moments far more than standard pre-manufactured frames. For case in point, by using edge of their biweekly fifty% sale at my favored interest keep, I can get a pre-produced eighteen”x24″ frame in a beautiful style and shade that very best satisfies the mosaic, have the mosaic set up in the body, have the hanging wire put in, and have paper backing installed, all for much less than $twenty five. That’s correct! www.mozpixie.com than 25 bucks. A custom made-created body may possibly value as much as $one hundred fifty.
Not only do I save on framing costs, the hardboard is low-cost in contrast to three/four-inch plywood and MDF. I get a pre-reduce section of hardboard alternatively of a total 4’x’8 sheet. The pre-lower part is 24″x48″. Being aware of the peak of my indoor wall mosaics is typically 24″ (which is the width of the pre-minimize area), this permits me to lower the hardboard offering me a 16″, eighteen”, or 24″ width for my mosaic foundation. For instance, suppose I want my mosaic to be 18″x24″. The pre-lower width of the hardboard I get is 24″. I measure and lower 18″, which final results in a piece of hardboard that is 18″x24″. The piece fits completely in a common eighteen”x24″ pre-manufactured frame. I measure and reduce the hardboard making use of a regular round observed and a “rip fence” that I make by clamping a 3-foot degree to the hardboard with two C-clamps. The rip fence makes it possible for me to thrust the observed along the straight edge of the level to make certain a straight and correct minimize.
I prepare the hardboard basis by painting it with two coats of white primer. The principal reason for painting it white is to get a white background on to which the glass tesserae will be adhered (Note: I often adhere the glass to the rough aspect of the hardboard). Despite the fact that I typically use opaque glass, the white track record aids brighten it up. The dark-brown color of the hardboard helps make the glass pieces show up boring and dim, even though the glass is supposed to be opaque. The secondary advantage of painting the hardboard with primer is that it seals it. I don’t know if sealing hardboard does something, but it helps make me really feel far better believing it really is sealed. I will not know the materials or chemical homes of hardboard and how it truly is manufactured, so I will not know if it needs to be sealed, but painting it gives me a great, heat-and-fuzzy emotion. I have a routine of sealing every thing whether it wants it or not.
Soon after implementing the tesserae and grout, you may be stunned at how adaptable the mosaic is without having leading to glass or grout failure (assuming your tesserae are comparatively small). When I 1st employed one/8-inch hardboard as the foundation for a mosaic, I experimented and discovered that I could bend the mosaic a complete two inches with out impacting the glass and grout. I was as well afraid to bend it much more than two inches! Soon after the experiment, I assumed if the mosaic can bend a whopping two inches, then it can endure any warping that may well arise. Then, after the mosaic was put in in the pre-made frame, I realized that the mosaic was put in in these kinds of a fashion to inhibit any warping at all. The mosaic was pressed and held in-location with the little fasteners in the back again of the frame to preserve it from falling out. The only way the mosaic can warp is if it truly is powerful ample to result in the body to warp with it. I’ve in no way experienced a problem with any indoor wall mosaic warping when employing one/8-inch hardboard installed in a common pre-created frame.
1/eight-inch hardboard is also lightweight enough so the fat of the total mosaic isn’t really so large that you have to remodel your residence to produce a assistance structure stout enough to hold the weight of a mosaic. Generally, my 24″x24″ (or considerably less) mosaics are light-weight enough to sufficiently hang by indicates of a photograph hook and nail set up in drywall. I do not have to cut into the drywall to set up 2″x4″ items in between the studs and then replace the drywall. This is incredibly beneficial, especially when offering or offering absent the mosaic (i.e., you will not lose customers that you may otherwise lose if you explain to them they have to hang the mosaic by undertaking some thing much more than pounding a nail into wall).